2/13/2023 0 Comments Head porting kit harbor freight![]() I've found it to be much easier to use than some other approaches. When removed the shape of the head's ports will transfer to the manifold. It is a colored greasy substance you smear around the intake ports on the head. This is NOT the thin blue layout fluid like "Dykem". So in the future when you gain more experience and skill using one, you can use the same tool for burrs.Īs for matching the shape of the runners to the shape of the head ports, look into what's referred to as "engineers transfer blue" (although it also comes in yellow as "gear marker"). The nice thing about a 1/4" collet tool like these is it's the same tool for use with a carbide burr. If you don't have a compressor (although you should if you intend to do much shop work), the same styles are also available in electric power. Here is one example of what I'm referring to for the drums: They are MUCH easier to control, won't create huge damage if you screw up a little, very effective at shaping things uniformly (burrs tend to 'dig in'), won't clog up like burrs do on aluminum, and are very inexpensive (carbide burrs are NOT). So you can mix and match them to suit whatever specific changes you need to make to the runners. The drums come in a large variety of diameters, lengths, and grits. ![]() Therefore I agree with and suggest not using a carbide burr and just use sanding/grinding drums on a high speed tool (either air or electric driven). And even more especially when attempting to keep a nice concentric "round" shape in the runners. In the beginning it can be very easy to screw things up when using a carbide burr - especially if you have also never used a carbide burr before. It also sounds like you have not done porting work before. So mostly making a larger diameter "round" shape. Click to expand.As I understand you are talking about opening up the round runner passages in the intake manifold to match the ported head ports.
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